UPHILL BOTH WAYS, Part Seven
We acquired some new neighbors while we were up in the mountains. Right next to us was a tent with two teen-aged German-speaking girls. T.C. was a little surprised at the Bustenhalter
hanging off the tentpole in the morning. Notions of modesty differ from culture to culture; drying your underwear this way wasn't a big deal to them.Flying your flagMove along, nothing to seeSunlight on a lone tentGod is smiling on the camp
It was a delightfully slow morning. It being Sunday, we put on our best uniforming and went to church in the village. We got there just as the service was starting.
There was a baptism. The fact that there was a baby being sprinkled probably seemed as odd to T.C. as the fact that the service was in German. Later on, I asked Alane if she understood what the baby's name was. Yes, she said, it was Freeda. No, I replied, Friede
means "peace" in German. The baby's name was Nola.
The first part of the service was in the local dialect -- called Schwyzerdütsch
by some -- but when the time came to preach, the pastor ascended the pulpit and read the Bible and preached in standard Hochdeutsch.
I could understand much of that, but the local dialect was a burr of musical sounds I couldn't break apart into words. The Scripture reading was from the book of Ruth. He had a lot to say about Flüchtlinge,
and about being strangers far from home. I mentally translated that as "exiles." Talking with him later outdoors, he corrected me. It means "refugees." That Sunday was Refugee Sunday all over Europe, apparently -- or at least, among the Swiss Reformed congregations.
There were lots of hymns, with good tunes. I enjoyed singing them. At the conclusion of the service, the pastor gave the benediction and walked out the door. We thought it was time to go, but the congregation all stayed seated throughout the long organ postlude. When it finally came to an end, they all applauded the organist -- and then got up to leave.
We walked slowly back to KISC, looking for someplace to do lunch. Though we wanted something Swiss, we finally settled on the pizzeria. There, we found that Swiss pizza is something a little different. We each had a personal pizza, prepared to order. The waiter warned us that in Switzerland, "pepperoni" doesn't mean spicy sausage, but what we would call sliced bell peppers. It was all very good, and dessert was ice cream (sorbet in T.J.'s case).At the pizzeriaA delightful lunchReturning to campJust never get tired of looking at mountains
Back at KISC, we got word that T.C.'s phone had been found -- or, at least, a
phone had been found. I confirmed our return airline flights. And we decided to return to Geneva by way of Brig. That way we could say we went through the Lötschberg Tunnel. Things were coming together.
T.C. asked me if this had been a good retirement trip. Has it ever! I told him that sometimes I can feel God at work on a trip. I certainly felt that in 2000-2001 when putting together our Trip of the Millennium to Tanzania, but not the next time I went. Most of the time, I told him, God expects you to apply yourself and make good judgments and sweat it out. But sometimes -- sometimes
-- you can feel
the flow of God's Spirit moving all about you, and you know -- you just know
-- that you are in the very center of God's will, and everything will work out okay.
KISC has a full-fledged Finnish sauna building -- a gift from the Finnish National Scouting Committee years ago. I rented it for the evening. We built a fire in its stove before supper and immediately afterwards, I stoked it up as hot as I could get it. Meanwhile, T.C. got his phone back at supper, and everything was good on that score.Getting steamedSomething special
I was really looking forward to the sauna. I had built Indian sweat lodges before in various camps. A good steam bath will clear out all your pores and re-condition your body and soul. We gathered in the innermost room by the stove. Alane was uncomfortable with the heat, even before we added water to the hot rocks. She moved to the outer steam room. After the first dousing, she went to the outer room where you leave your outer garments and waited for us. We three guys steamed ourselves dry. We poured bucket after bucket of water on the hot coals until we couldn't stand it any more. Then we went next door to the shower house and each stood in a shower stall and hit the COLD water.
"How long do we stay under the water?" asked T.C. "Until it starts to feel cold," I said. Afterward, we were light as feathers. Ahh.
The next day, T.C. and T.J. wanted to go swim in the Oeschinensee. I wasn't happy about going back. We would spend a lot of money to indulge them via cable car. But as long as we were back in time for lunch, I'd go along with it. We decided we wanted to go to the super-traditional Swiss restaurant across from the 4-Star (and owned by the same) and get fondue for lunch.Monday, 6/19
At breakfast the next morning, T.C. said to me, in an insinuating manner, "Don't you just hate it when you wake up and your hair is everywhere?" Unruffled, I replied, "Ya hate it a lot worse when you wake up and your hair is nowhere."
We went through the checkout drill. I decided that the first three English phrases a pinkie must learn, if not a native English speaker, must be, "Cool!" "OK" and "No problem."
I asked about the interesting knot that the pinkies wore on their neckerchiefs. I was told it's called the Friendship Knot. You're not supposed to tie it yourself; you're supposed to tie it on somebody else's neckerchief when you've made a new friend. One of the pinkies -- a young man from Denmark -- told me that uniforms have fallen out of favor in much of Europe. Not practical, he said. So a Scout t-shirt or polo with a neckerchief serves as universal Scout wear.
We hustled ourselves over to the foot of the Gondelbahn, where we paid an eye-watering amount for return tickets, in order for our guys to fulfill the suggestion that they go jump in the lake. I endured some mild kidding about riding up, which I supposed I deserved. I had told them beforehand that I don't like cable cars. But I sure wasn't going to walk up that doggone valley again. At the top, we caught the tour bus to the Oeschinensee, and there, T.C. and T.J. took the plunge.Oeschinensee againCows were roaming everywhere this timeGetting wetIt's official now
We took the tour bus back to the Gondelbahn and the cable car to the road. We walked back to town and grabbed a bus to the Rüdihus. We were just in time. It was 1:45, and the kitchen was due to close in 15 minutes.
The Rüdihus staff all wear traditional Swiss costume. Fondue is a specialty, but they also do wine and cheese tastings, parties, etc. I had noticed the number of houseflies all over the valley -- a function of the cows that graze everywhere, I suppose. The windows were open, which meant that the flies are very much a part of high-end traditional dining.
The fondue was excellent. T.C. ordered a plain cheese fondue. T.J. and I shared a big one with speck (bacon, of a sort) and onions. Alane had one with morels in it. We dipped hunks of rye bread in it. We drank iced tea -- but what iced tea! We asked what was in it, and we were told it was just "Swiss Ice Tea." I think they sweetened it with something like elderflower syrup, rather than sugar. It was delightful.
T.C. suggested we do fondue for the crackerbarrel at the Winter Rendezvous. Hmmm . . . Alane said they'd just criticize it for being bad nacho cheese and wonder where the chips were.Fondue at the RüdihusTraditional Swiss cuisine
Well, it was magnificent, but it was also very pricey. Our meal cost us 154 CHF -- about the same for a simple lunch as the fancy meal at die Krone.
Still, it's all part of the adventure. Glad we did it.
Back at camp, we grabbed our stuff, waited for the bus, then waited for our train. Then we were off through the tunnel. While waiting for the train, I went looking for something to read in a little kiosk there. I expected only stuff in German, and that was all right, but all the German language novels were "moderns," i.e., boring. so I bought some German language comic books: Asterix und der Kupferkessel
and a big Disney collection. Scrooge McDuck in German is called Dagobert Duck, by the way.
The high tunnel passed quickly through the mountains and then began to descend slowly down the side of the same mountains to Brig. We changed there for Geneva. Once we reached Lac Leman again, we passed through Vevey. I told the Crew that this town's namesake is Vevay, Indiana. Vevay is the county seat of Switzerland County, Indiana. It was settled and named by Swiss immigrants who liked its hills.
The train's terminus was at the Geneva airport. Everybody got off. We struggled with our luggage into the main lobby of the airport and looked around for somewhere to crash for the night. A Swiss-Canadian "ambassador" for KISC had warned us that we might get hassled by the police there, but it looked to me as if half of Geneva had decided to spend the night at the airport. We immediately met a lady from St. John's, Newfoundland, who was trying to get home from her son's wedding.
We were staying in the airport because our flight left at 7:05 a.m. the next morning, and we needed to check in two hours prior to that. So, we were in for an uncomfortable night, but you do what you have to do.
I read some in my German language comic books. I had thought comics would be simple reading, but it turns out, they're very difficult. Comic book language is highly compressed and highly colloquial. They're actually a workout for someone who isn't a native speaker/reader. But I enjoyed them.Going homeNever mind the discomfort, you can always sleep on the planeTuesday, 6/20
I was up at 4:00 a.m. I had really overtaxed my legs -- especially my right one -- the day before. Now, a night spent in a chair with my legs dangling down had made my foot and ankle swell severely. On top of everything, I had had to quit taking my aspirin and Celebrex two days before because of some upcoming medical tests after I got back home. I was hurting.
I noticed that the people in the shops at the Geneva airport spoke less English and were less friendly than the shop people in German-speaking Switzerland. Maybe I just caught these on a bad day. Who knows.
I was pleased to see that Turkish Airlines did not charge us for our extra bag! One up on United! And . . . T.J. got stopped going through security. For what, we never did find out. But eventually, they waved him through.
Seating was very cramped on the shorter flight to Istanbul. The swelling, especially in my right leg, was very painful. Had to get up and move. T.C. had an extra seat by him, so I sat there and massaged my leg to get the blood moving.
Istanbul was a big
airport. U.S.-bound flights were all at the far end. We went through multiple layers of security. There was the initial transfer-screening, then two more document checks, then a luggage and personal check where they swabbed our hands and wanded every compartment of our carry-on luggage. We had to take off our shoes, too. Then Alane had to have her camera checked through separately (which none of the rest of us had to). We never could figure out why. Oh, well. As my friend Zach told me, Turkish security is no joke.
T.J. was dying for a hamburger, and a little restaurant there made him a good one. I had a Gösleme
-- sort of a floury tortilla rolled up with cheese in it.
Then came our long flight: Istanbul to Chicago. Turkish Airlines had great food and lots of swag to give away. Repeated drink service, too. Seats were reasonably wide and comfortable, even with my aching legs. I'm a fan, now.
At O'Hare, we didn't have to open our bags again as they went through Customs, but we did have to go through several screening steps (again). We ate American food at a restaurant. Beef tasted good after so much time in Switzerland. There are lots of cows there, but they're all dairy cattle. Pork, pastry, cheese, and chocolate are Switzerland on a plate. But there comes a time when you want a hamburger and fries.
And then came our little hopper flight to Indianapolis. Kara met us there. We grabbed our luggage and drove back to Ellettsville. My truck was waiting at the parsonage where I left it. I drove home and got in the door about 1:30 a.m. Our wonderful Swiss adventure was over, and I was home and dry.
God be praised for it.